Author: Iain 'Cutty' Carlin
Week 10 – Blocks and Neck
Fitting neck and end blocks
- Plane blocks so that bottom is flush with bottom of jig
- Had to plane chamfers into sides of the neck block
- Had to plane down the contact edges so they are flush with the top and bottom of the sides
- Glued blocks into place and held with “G” clamps
Neck
- Started on the neck. Thickeness to 18mm then cut to jig dimensions on band saw ready to glue (did another crap cut on the bandsaw)
- Using scarf joint method instead of laminating (is stronger but not necessarily easier)
Infopath form error when calling WCF service via SSL
Interesting issue with a few Infopath forms. They’ve been working fine for ages using a WCF service to update another system.
When we changed our SharePoint site to use SSL, the form was generating an error when calling the WCF service. There were a number of factors at play:
- The WCF service was not configured correctly to have an SSL end point. By changing the binding configuration in the web.config for the web service, I was able to get the WSDL to display correctly using https when browsing to the service. However, the form still didn’t work AND the WSDL returned had the wrong URL (was the internal server name not the FQDN).
Week 9 – Moulding Sides
Moulding Sides
- Removed 2nd Side from bender (was a bit charred due to being heated too long)
- Same process as 1st side to put into mould:
- Remove 1st side
- Cut roughly to size with some overlap
- Set centre line and mark with square
- Cut using block and Tenon/dovetail saw
- Place both sides into jig and tighten up block
- Had to block plane edges to fit flush
Front braces
- Cut thin flat braces for front from left over top and bottom materials (not enough for bridge brace so had to modify the shape to suit available materials)
- Glued front braces, bridge and sound hole braces and placed into go-bar jig to dry
Week 8 – Side bending part 2
Second side bend
- Same as first side (couple of notes below)
- Make sure the waist block on bender is centred correctly to drop into the slot
- Push down on top as you pull over the blocks – push with left hand while pulling block with right
- MAKE SURE YOU DON”T LEAVE IT TOO LONG with the heater on – it burns the wood!!!
First side into guitar mould
- Put first side into the guitar jig/mould
- Put in first then tighten up the spreader
- Cut off excess on ends if spreader won’t fit
- Tighten spreader and mark sides to centres and cut to centre line
Cross brace curves
- Carve curves into the cross brace using a chisel
- Use thumb planes to taper sides to a point at the top
- Sand down sided and tops
Calling lists web service fails when using SSL but works with HTTP
Had an issue where a Data Form Web Part was calling a list service (asmx or svc) on a different site collection in order to expose data between the two sites.
It would work internally (using http), but once the page was loaded externally, we would get an error. Externally the site is loaded via https.
Trying the same page internally with https generated the same error.
Turns out the https site needs to be configured as an INTERNAL URL in Alternate Access Mappings in Central Administration. We had it configured as Extranet. It is possible to configure both https and http urls on the same default zone in AAM rather than in separate zones.…
Week 7 – Side Bending
Side Bending
- Thickness sides to 2.5mm
- Cut to 115mm wide
- Turn on the heating pad to warm up
- Mark top and bottom and front with white engineers pen
- Wet side and wrap in alfoil
- Mark the waist position on the alfoil and insert into bender with bottom to bottom of jig
- Put springs on clamps and side blocks after inserting wood
- Heat for 15 minutes – screw down waist till tight then back off 2 turns
- Pull over spring blocks to bend sides – may need to pull back and repeat
- Turn off heater after 15 minutes and leave for a week to set bends
Top braces
- Plane top braces to 15mm high
- Cut leftover spruce from top to cover top of join in X-braces – 50mm long and as wide as brace
- Glue and hold down with masking tape
Main brace hole for truss rod adjustment
- Find centre of top main brace on front, mark 7.75mm up from botom and drill 9.5mm hole(for access to truss rod nut)
- Chamfer other braces for top so centre is 3mm wide, remember not to go beyond the bottom width
- Cut small 45 degree angles on ends of small braces to provide slotting into the cross braces
Week 6 – Cross Brace
Notch front X-brace
- Use sliding bevel to set angles of cuts
- Use scribe to measure 7.5mm from top and bottom of ‘A’ and ‘B’ braces
- Notch for smaller braces into bottom of X-braces
- Mark either side & cut with dovetail saw at 45 degrees then chisel out with 6mm chisel
- Glue join of x-brace
- Glue x-brace to front hold down with go-bars
- Use wood slivers to get excess glue out of smaller brace cut-outs
Back
- With block plane chamfer off braces to a slope
- Sand with 150 till tops are round
- Clean off excess glue on back by sanding
Week 5 – Back work and Sound Hole
Attaching back braces
- Use block plane to round off back reinforcing strip, sand to get good finish
- Cut slots in back reinforcing strip using template to mark distances
- Saw through slightly and then use 6mm chisel to cut out
- Plane tops of back braces to an angle so that the top is 4mm wide, but the bottom retains its original width
- Glue the back braces in between the cut slots and use the go-bars to hold in till dry
- 2nd from bottom brace goes in first then check it is square with the reinforcing strip
- Put in the last 3 braces, measuring the distance between left and right sides with the first strip to ensure parallel
Front work
- Thicknessed the sound board to 2.5mm on the sander so that inlay is flush with top
- Cut sound hole using circle cutting jig.
Week 4 – More Sound Hole work
Cutting the inlay channel
- Block planed the inlays round sound hole till flush with top
- With 10mm router bit, but rosette inlay circle to 1.5mm deep. Start nearer neck end in case mistakes are made because these can be covered up by the neck.
- Start from the centre of rosette then adjust outwards slowly in micro-steps until the router just starts to cut into the other inlays
Cutting the inlay for the rosette
- Cut the inlay to the outside diameter of the channel (can always cut a slot to make it smaller if it doesn’t fit
- Then cut the inner side of the inlay based on the width of the channel (not the diameter of the inner edge).