Category: Lutherie

In 2015 I started a Musical Instrument Making course at TAFE. This is my record of what I’ve done in that course and since.

The next project

Posted on by Iain 'Cutty' Carlin

This next build is taking me a long time to do. Started it in February 2018 while I was still doing the instrument making course at TAFE. My goal was and is to make the entire thing at home, which I have achieved so far. It’s taken so long because of a) lack of motivation and time and b) I have had to build lots of jigs and buy more tools in order to complete the job.

As of October 2019, the sound box is now complete. Papua New Guinea Rosewood back and sides with Silver Quandong top. The bindings and end graft are Tassie Blackwood and maple.…

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Week 29 – Cutting back

Posted on by Iain 'Cutty' Carlin

(Not at TAFE this week but picked up guitar to work on at home)

  • Guitar sprayed with lacquer
  • With 320 grit paper sand over all surfaces with lacquer on them until wipe over with hand shows no dimples
  • Make sure sanding is white – if wood colour comes through then have gone too far
  • Wiped down all over with a damp cloth
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Week 28 – Bridge and masking

Posted on by Iain 'Cutty' Carlin
  • Located bridge on body by measuring 645.2mm down from bottom of nu to bottom E string crossover point
  • Centred by laying straight edge down side of fretboard and measuring distance across to holes of both E strings. Once distance is the same, bridge is centred.
  • Make square with neck by using fret ruler laid centrally on neck to flat edge of bridge with end of ruler
  • Put masking tape in approximate position across bridge location
  • Clamped in place with bridge clamps through sound hole then drilled through E string pin holes with 2 drill bits to locate
  • Carefully score around bridge location with knife and remove around bridge
  • Masked up sound hole by gradually building up tape from the outer edges of sound hole till small hole left in centre.
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Week 27 – Bridge Shaping

Posted on by Iain 'Cutty' Carlin
  • Put bridge into jig
  • Measured length and location of slot from template bridge
  • Mark out length on jig top so router only moves that length
  • Cut channel through jug top using 1.5mm bit in router
  • Fit jig top to bottom at location of slot as marked on bridge. Screw top of jig to bottom
  • Route through top plate of jig in 3mm increments till saddle slot is 9mm deep
  • Marked outline of bridge onto block
  • Cut outline roughly on band saw
  • Shape to final outline on bobbin sander
  • Used routing table and 6mm bit to route bottom edge
  • Finished off on bobbin sander & with sandpaper, file and spokeshave
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Week 26 – Finishing off body and neck

Posted on by Iain 'Cutty' Carlin
  • Split in back of neck had opened up again.
  • Sanded down side of neck so that side of fret board is flush with side of neck. Started with 150 then worked down to 180 grit
  • Orbital sanded the front, back and sides with 120-150-180 grit
  • Glued split in back of neck and taped up with masking tape to dry
  • Filled gaps at base of neck and fret board
  • Sanded head with orbital sander
  • Using 180 grit, sand bevel round all sharp edges on body, neck & head then make radius (1mm only)
  • Started thinking about bridge block designs
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Week 25 – More neck work

Posted on by Iain 'Cutty' Carlin

Fitting truss rod

  • Block plane & chisel down truss rod cover strip so flush with neck
  • Cut off fret wire using side cutters held parallel to side of fretboard
  • File down edge of frets till level with side of fret board on top and bottom
  • Start flat then bevel inwards to fret board front then repeat till level
  • Use finer file to finish then bevel file to complete

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Fitting Fretboard

  • Block planed top of body till fret board level with neck and sound board. Plane VERY finely set
  • Orbital sand front and sides till smooth
  • Planed and used cabinet scrapers on fret board till it sat flush on sound board
  • Drilled 2 x 1.5
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